Right now, mid-May, Spain is in the window. Terraces are full by 11am in Seville but the white heat of July is still weeks away. Madrid's Retiro is deep green — the rose garden at its peak, rowboats creaking on the pond. Barcelona mornings are cool enough for coffee outside. The Mediterranean is warming but still bracing. Córdoba's patios are overflowing with geraniums and the scent of jasmine carries through the Judería in the late afternoon.
Southern Spain is warming but not yet oppressive. Seville and Córdoba touched 28–29°C this week — the first near-30° days of the season. By late May the 30° line will be crossed regularly. Plan siesta-hour indoor activities now, while the pattern still feels optional. Granada cools quickly once the sun drops behind the Alhambra hill — pack a layer for evenings.
Madrid and the interior are dry, sunny, 20–26°C. Evenings still drop to 12°C — the light jacket isn't optional yet. No rain expected through the coming week. The Retiro rose garden is at peak.
Barcelona and the Catalan coast are 18–24°C with mixed sun and cloud. The sea is cool but swimmable at 17–18°C. Light afternoon showers possible mid-week. Primavera Sound (May 28–31) will fill Parc del Fòrum — if you're not festival-going, book accommodation in Eixample or Gràcia.
Northern Spain — Basque Country, Galicia, Asturias — is 16–22°C, green, uncrowded. San Sebastián has afternoon rain Wednesday and Thursday. People often skip the north in May, worried about weather. Mistake. The food scene is world-class, the landscapes are lush, and the crowds won't arrive until July. Best value in Spain right now.
The Balearics are 20–25°C, mostly sunny, sea at 18–20°C. Pre-summer quiet — excellent hiking and cycling conditions. Ibiza's opening parties are still weeks away. If you want peaceful Ibiza with empty beaches, now is perfect. The Canary Islands remain their steady 22–26°C, though light Saharan dust lingers over Lanzarote and Fuerteventura — clearing by the weekend. Check air quality if you have respiratory sensitivities.
What to book now.
The Alhambra's Nasrid Palaces are sold out through May 27. June slots are opening — book two to four weeks ahead at the official site. Córdoba accommodation for Feria week (May 23–30) is below 15% availability, prices at triple normal rates. If you don't have a booking, stay in Jaén or Écija and day-trip in by train.
Sagrada Familia tower access needs three to five days advance for weekends — weekdays are currently available. AVE weekend seats on the Madrid–Barcelona corridor fill fast; Friday and Sunday evening departures should be booked a week or two ahead, or prices double close to departure. San Sebastián pintxos tours book one to two weeks out for weekends. Balearic ferries with car spaces sell out on Friday and Sunday sailings — foot passengers can usually get tickets same day.
What doesn't need urgency: Prado Museum (same week is fine, book online to skip the queue). Flamenco tablaos in Seville (three to five days for the quality venues). Most regional trains (leave flexible). Full advance-booking guide →
What's happening. San Isidro wraps up in Madrid today, May 15 — last day for chulapo traditions in Las Vistillas. The Feria de Córdoba begins May 23 and runs through the 30th: the city transforms into flamenco, horses, and casetas. If you're not attending, avoid the city center from May 22 onward. Primavera Sound takes over Barcelona's Parc del Fòrum May 28–31 — hotels in Diagonal Mar and Poblenou will be expensive and loud. Book elsewhere if you're not going.
Renfe has minor platform works at Barcelona Sants through May 18 — some AVE departures shifted five to ten minutes. No cancellations. The Sierra Nevada ski season ended in late April; summer hiking doesn't begin until late June. The resort is in shoulder transition. Costa del Sol beaches are fine for sunbathing and walking, but the sea is still cool at 17–18°C. If you want guaranteed hot, lazy beach days, wait until late June. Costa Blanca is warmer — sea at 21°C around Alicante and Valencia, fully pleasant for swimming.
Looking ahead. Late May brings the Córdoba Feria and Primavera Sound, then the temperature climbs. Southern Spain crosses 30°C consistently from around May 20. The Balearic sea warms past 20°C — beach season begins in earnest. Northern Spain enters its prime window: long daylight with sunsets near 9:45pm, green landscapes, fewer tourists than the Mediterranean coast. Early June: the Mediterranean hits 20–22°C, Costa Brava coves are at their pre-summer best, and summer flight schedules ramp up. Hotel rates begin climbing around June 15 across the Mediterranean coast — book June stays before June 10.
What's coming further out: Sónar Festival in Barcelona (June 11–13), San Juan bonfires along every Spanish coast (night of June 23), and the first major Ibiza club openings in early June. Alhambra tickets for June are selling now — don't wait. Spain in June — full monthly brief →
Spain This Week
What changed, what to book, what to avoid — every Monday, based on current conditions, not a content calendar.